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THE CENTENARY MEET AT ZERMATT, 1957 TI-IE CENTENARY MEET AT ZERMATT, 1957 Pages from a Diary BY SIR JOHN I-IUNT wo days after the Raclette party on Riffelalp, our party returned to the Betemps hut, after an exceptionally cold and windy traverse of the Lyskamm, which was, however, noteworthy I for the membership of the party itself; it included the leaders of two Swiss Everest Expeditions, Eduard Wyss-Dunant and Albert Eggler, as well as Fritz IJuchsinger, who, with Ernst Reiss, made the first ascent of Lhotse in 1956. .. Our next objective was the Breithorn via the Klein Triftje (or Young ridge) and we were busy with preparations from the moment of our return to the hut. The composition of the party for this next expedition changed with the arrival of George Band and Chris Brasher, hot-foot from the Bregag- lia; my wife and Wyss-Dunant dropped out, and Hobhouse, Tyson and I were joined by Eggler, Luchsinger and Fritz Gansser. . August 22. We left the hut at 3 a.m. in clear starlight. Bandand Brasher got away to a flying start and made a great pace across the Grenz glacier towards the foot of the buttress thrown down from the I{lein Triftje; we could see their lantern almost half a mile ahead of us when we were barely half-way across. Misfortune struck us early, for at brief intervals both Luchsinger and I broke our crampons on the rough going; we managed to make temporary repairs, but I was short of t,;vo of the inside points, which proved awkward later on. By 5.30 a.m. we had topped the rocks of the buttress and reached • the glacier, where the party roped up in three ropes of two : Eggler and Tyson, Hobhouse and myself, and the Fritz's. At 7.I 5 we stood at the foot of the ridge proper and found a scrawled message from Band on the snow, to the effect that they had halted for forty minutes here for breakfast, three-quarters of an hour earlier; the arete rose sharp and steep above us, and we could see them a good way up. To our surprise we also noticed another pair higher still, who had evidently come across from the Gandegg hut; these turned out to be a Zermatt guide and his French client. From the start the ridge was a delight, narrow and well-defined, and at this stage, in the intense cold, we were not sorry to be able toPDF Image | Zermatt Ski Map
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