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• there was a dramatic change; the clouds dispersed and it turned out to be a brilliant day, with a very strong wind higher up; we could hear it on the f~r side of the ridge, while we were, of course, com- pletely sheltered. Arriving on the highest terrace of the glacier at 7 a.m., we found the Commandos just starting up the rocks; they had elected to climb by the rib on the left of the central couloir, and after stopping for a rest and food, we followed and passed them. Just as we were starting up ourselves, we were surprised to see below us the same pair of climbers we had met on the Young ridge the guide and the Frenchman. For about one and a half hours the climbing was delightful and easy, up gneiss slabs; we moved together, getting very hot on this sheltered side of the mountain; the summit ridge was now only 30o-4oo ft. above us. At this point the wall steepens considerably, and we crossed the couloir to its right side, and moved up to the foot of a buttress, which flanks the big diagonal snow couloir coming down immediately to the right of the summit. The climbing here became more serious about Grade IV for two of the three pitches on this section. The guide now asked to pass us, and went into the lead; when Tyson and I joined him on the broad terrace at the top of the buttress, he advised us not to follow the couloir, which he had just inspected and found to be in ice. He led off towards the direct finish of the climb and it seemed both wise and more interesting to follow them. From this point there was an upwards traverse along a minor terrace beneath the final, vertical wall; it led us to a break, where we were able to move directly upwards for twelve feet and left-handed, on the wall itself -we were now on very steep ground and the rock was not alto- gether sound. After a hard move in considerable exposure we reached a niche with just room for Tyson and myself. Tyson led up to the left again, over an awkward bulge; the ground was too steep to see the leading pair, who had now arrived at the top stance beneath the cornice. · There then followed a very long delay, during which I brought up Hobhouse to join me; the Commandos were held up on the easier ground beneath the final wall. It was I I a.m. A growing feeling of tension was communicated to us from the trio out of sight above us. We heard laboured breathing and grunts from the guide. Tyson informed us that the latter had attempted the chimney above him, which appeared to be excessively hard, and had failed; after returning with some difficulty to leave his sack, he was now trying again; Tyson was obviously not happy about this turn of events. The tension now changed to a sense of mounting crisis; the messages from above informed us that the • THE CENTENARY MEET AT ZERMATT, 1957 8g IPDF Image | Zermatt Ski Map
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