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90 . THE CENTENARY MEET AT ZERMATT, 1957 guide was stuck on a critical move some twenty feet above the stance . . . that the rope was jammed below him . . . that he had told the Frenchman to leave the stance, climb up and release it. It sounded highly unsatisfactory on this strictly perpendicular face. The next message was even more alarming. The Frenchman, after releasing himself from the belay, and climbing upwards for a short distance with the rope slack and untended between hin1self and his guide, had come off ... he had fallen until, just before the rope became taut, he had managed, miraculously, to check his fall. The breathing above us became more laboured still; time was obviously running out. Then we heard voices above us, on the summit; a party had arrived from the Wellenkuppe. We all shouted ourselves hoarse in an effort to attract their attention and, to our tremendous relief, we succeeded. Then came the detente, as Tyson conveyed the information that a rope had been lowered from the cornice . . . that Julen ';vas now tied on ... that he was going up on this ' top ' rope. Shortly after, I joined Tyson and found him under- standably shaken from this long-drawn-out drama; nearly one and a half hours had passed since he had reached this point. Grate- fully, we each in turn accepted a ' top ' rope to the crest, where we eventuallyarrivedatabout2p.m. Inourthenconditionofanxiety, it seemed to us almost ' XS ' in standard, but is probably less than this. After lending a hand to the Commando party, getting considerably numbed in the bitter north wind, '"e descended by the Arbengrat, reaching our bivouac site at 7·45 p.m. . . . On August 27, my wife, my daughter Susan and myself, accompanied by Hobhouse, went up to the Tasch hut, from which I hoped to take Susan on her first high alpine climb the Alphubel by the Rotgrat. Follovving the others at some distance, I n1et Byam-Grounds on the path about half an hour belovv the hut, on his way down to alert Zermatt and make enquiries on the Saas side about three members of his party, who had not returned from the same climb that day; the '"eather was bad. In the hut '"ere Goodfellow and his son Terence, Peter IJoyd and Emlyn Jones and his wife, all of whom had also climbed the Arbengrat that morning. We discussed what action to take. It seemed best for my party to continue with our plan, descending the South ridge to the Alphubeljoch, while the others came up by the glacier to join us there; in this way we should be able to search the mountain on all sides other than the easy descent to Saas Fee. Meanwhile, Byam-Grounds had returned, having heard no nevvs of the return of the missing trio to the valleys.PDF Image | Zermatt Ski Map
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