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92 THE CENTENARY MEET AT ZERMATT, 1957 that our direction was correct. Below, we could now see four figures approaching the joch. At first I thought them to be on their way up the mountain by the normal route, but we gradually realized that they were our friends._ In the end the very cold end we had them safely down, sorted out between ourselves and the others. Lloyd, who had cut a splendid line of steps towards us on the slope, went down with Terence Goodfellow to advise the people in the hut; Nowill was taken in hand by Basil Goodfellow and Emlyn Jones; Hugo Rast remained with us, serene as ever but needing a good deal of support. Hermann Geiger was flying in and out of the mists overhead. OTHER CLIMBS DURING THE ALPINE CLUB CENTENARY MEET: ZERMA TT, I957 August I8. ALPHUBEL by Rotgrat. First rope: P. Lloyd, T. A. J. Goodfellow. Second rope: B. R. Goodfellow, A. D. B. Side, D. F. de V. Powers. Left Tasch Hut 4 a.m. Top of rock ridge I I .30 (first day!). Sum- mit about I .o, down by ridge to Alphubeljoch in mist and worsening weather. .£4ugust 2I. BREITHORN by Triftjigrat. P. Lloyd, B. R. Goodfellow, T . A. J. Goodfellow, F. H. Keenlyside. Left Gandegg Hut 4-IS a.m. Summit 2.45 p.m. The slopes above the Triftjisattel were nearly all ice, steepening to about sodegrees below the seracs at the edge of the Triftji plateau. This needed about I ,ooo ft. of step-cutting, allied by Lloyd, who used ice pitons. There was no difficulty getting onto the plateau. The party examined the seracs at the east end of the plateau and found a route through them which was not difficult and appeared to be virtually free from danger of falling ice. B. Goodfellow led the final part, making track through deep powder snow. August 24. TIEFENMATTENJOCH. Same party as above. Left Schonbiihl Hut about 5 a.m. Took left-hand (south) route through upper icefall. Prospected route on Dent d'Herens. Ascent to Tiefenmattenjoch deep snow in bad condition with ice underlying in places. Col in mist and incipient snowstorm. Abandoned attempt on ridge to Tete de Valpelline and returned. August 27. Attempt on TXscHHORN. P. Lloyd, B. R. Goodfellow, T . A. J. Goodfellow. Left Tasch Hut 3.30 a.m. Crossed lower and upper Weingarten glacier to West spur of Taschhorn and up to Mischabeljoch ridge atPDF Image | Zermatt Ski Map
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