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- OTHER CLIMBS DURING THE CENTENARY MEET 93 Pt. 4175 m. Ascended ridge for about an hour; strong cold wind, rock ridge plastered with snow, weather worsening. Considered it more prudent to return. The foregoing party, with J. H. Emlyn Jones, helped on August 28 in the operations to bring down Nowill's party which had spent the night ontopoftheAlphubel. SearchedtheSouthflank,andthen,crossingthe Alphubeljoch, searched the East (Saas) flank, and finally went up the South-east ridge to join Sir John Hunt's party, who were bringing the rescued ones down. August 27. LYSKAMM by the North-east face. T. A. H. Peacocke and D. Ross. The party left the Monte Rosa hut at 03.00 hours and having recon- noitred the route the previous day crossed the bergschrund at 07.oo hours, somewhat left of the direct line to the rocks of the Norman Neruda rib. At first a slightly diagonal line was made for the rocks, but the snow thinned and step cutting in hard ice became necessary. In an attempt to find snow the party bore away to the left towards another rocky outcrop, but after a short time more ice was met and it was decided to move back right to the main rib which after very heavy step cutting was reached at 10.30 hours. The foot of this rib is about Boo ft. from the bergschrund. The weather which had been fine early was now deteriorating, but as good snow was found on the right of the rocks it was decided to continue. A diagonal line of steps was made towards a gap between the rocks and a line of seracs, and the next 6oo ft. was climbed in an hour. The last 1,ooo ft., however, took much longer. The snow for the most part was good though one patch of ice was encountered and the cloud on the upper part of the mountain caused some delay, so that the summit was not reached until 15.00 hours. The average angle of the face would be about 55°, though the last 300ft. was less steep. The climb is a fine snow and ice expedition and the situation on the face is sensational. The conditions vary considerably. The week previous to this expedition a guided party made the climb keeping to the left of the rocks until half way up, when they completed the ascent by the rocks of the Norman Neruda rib. They cut no steps in i~e and found the rocks in quite good condition. The rocks in the lower half of the rib are much more difficult than those in the upper half. On August 27 the rocks were plastered with ice and snow and would have taken a very long time. In these conditions the right-hand route would appear preferable. The party descended to the Lysjoch in mist and snow but owing to poor visibility, which was reduced to a few metres, lost much time in trying to find the route to the Grenz glacier. Eventually at 18.oo hoursPDF Image | Zermatt Ski Map
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